Furniture scratching ranges from the mild to the total destruction of an entire piece of furniture. If your cat engages in the latter, it can be extremely frustrating as you attempt to convince him that Grandma’s antique chair isn’t his personal playground.
If you’ve tried to train your cat NOT to
scratch furniture without giving him a more appealing alternative
then I’ll bet things didn’t go your way. Scratching is an important
and complex part of life as a cat. Many owners have the
misconception that scratching is merely the cat’s attempt to
sharpen his claws or that the behavior is rooted in some spiteful
attempt to deliberately misbehave. In truth, scratching serves many
purposes. In addition to conditioning the claws, it’s a very
effective way for the cat to stretch his back and shoulder
muscles.
Scratching also serves as a marking behavior. The marks left by the
claws provide a visual sign for others. In an outdoor setting, this
visual mark is important because it enables an approaching cat to
see from a distance that he’s entering another cat’s territory.
This early warning could prevent an unpleasant physical
encounter.
When the cat scratches an object he also leaves an olfactory mark by way of scent glands in the paw pads. This way, should another cat approach the scratch mark, he would be able to gather information from the pheromones (scent chemicals).
Scratching is also used as an emotional release or displacement behavior. When your cat is anxious, happy, excited or frustrated, he can release some of that built-up emotion by scratching. You may notice this if your cat scratches before or after a play session, when you arrive home, as dinner is being prepared, or if he has a tense encounter with another companion pet.
Since scratching is so complex and is such an important aspect of a cat’s day-to-day life, proper training methods must be used to direct the cat from the prohibited scratching object to an acceptable one. The behavior modification technique begins by making sure you have a scratching post that meets the cat’s needs from the standpoint of texture, height, stability, and location. For most cats, sisal-covered posts are most appealing. The rough texture makes it easy for cats to dig their claws in and get an effective scratch. Carpet-covered posts are basically ineffective and very often, cats get their claws caught in the loops of the carpet.
The height of the scratching post should enable the cat to get a full stretch. If the post is too small the cat has to hunch over to use it and that doesn’t allow for a good back and neck stretch. If that’s the case, kitty will probably seek out a taller option and that usually ends up being your chair or sofa. So look for posts that are relatively tall. Make sure the tall post is very stable though. The taller the post – the wider the base should be. The last thing you want is for the post to topple over as the cat is attempting to scratch.
You can buy the best post in the world but if you put it in the wrong location it won’t get used. Don’t hide it in a corner or in a room where kitty doesn’t spend time. When a cat needs to scratch he’ll look for the closest object that meets his needs. Keep the post where kitty likes to spend time.
If you have more than one cat, invest in more than one scratching post or think about getting a cat tree. Cat trees that have sisal-covered support posts serve double-duty as great elevated perching areas and scratching posts. With a cat tree, more than one cat can share one space at the same time.
For cats who like to scratch horizontally, you can find corrugated cardboard scratching pads at your local pet supply store. These inexpensive pads usually are treated with catnip for added enticement.
Once you’ve found the ideal post, cover the prohibited scratching object with a little double-sided tape. I like the product Sticky Paws because it’s made specifically for furniture. After you’ve covered the area where kitty is scratching, place the “new and improved” scratching post next to it. When he goes over for his regular scratching session he’ll discover something much more effective. If he still doesn’t get the hang of it, entice him by using an interactive toy near the post.
Punishment is never a good option when training a cat so don’t scold him, squirt him with water, or hit him for scratching a prohibited object. The only message you’ll be conveying is that he should be afraid of you. Scratching is a normal part of cat life and instead of trying to stop him from engaging in a perfectly normal behavior, create a more acceptable option.
If you need step-by-step instructions on how to train a cat to
use the scratching post, refer to the book Starting from Scratch.
Pam Johnson-Bennett is a Certified Cat Behavior Consultant and owner of Cat Behavior Associates, LLC.
Information in this blog is not meant to be used as a medical diagnosis. If you suspect your cat has a medical problem, contact your veterinarian.
